Fashion’s role in uncertainty around the world is always in flux. This year it became clear that making good clothes is no longer enough. Designers today must push the boundaries by weaving social and cultural resonances into the fabric of their garments. For brands such as Ahluwalia, Telfar and A-COLD-WALL *, designer involvement in a wider range of social dialogues enriches the media and drives the industry into a cultural sphere. Increasingly, consumers are paying attention.
“There was definitely a change because consumers are buying in a much more thoughtful way, and it’s really exciting to see it. There’s more room for perspective, the landscape is wider, fashion and What is considered is broader across different disciplines. There is also a focus on cultural and social dialogue, and consumers want to know more about cultural heritage and the people behind the brand. ” Damian Paul, head of men’s clothing for fashion, tells Highsnobiety.
According to a Fleishman Hillard survey, nearly two-thirds (64%) of consumers discuss not only their customers, but their behavior, social and environmental impacts so that companies can be more credible than their competitors. I think it is necessary. Offer.
Given the influence of Priya Ahluwalia’s label of the same name, it’s clear enough. Through sportswear lenses (and recent tailoring and denim experiments), London-based designers have combined the cultural intersection and exchange of Nigerian and Indian traditions with responsible procurement and manufacturing techniques. In addition, she explores ideas about black, brown, and South Asian experiences throughout history, from immigrant stories to music to the role of youth culture in the British black citizenship movement.
A personal and delightful tribute to the underrated community that pays the utmost respect to the environment through skillful upcycling of dead stock fabrics, Ahluwalia is this year’s Queen Elizabeth II British Design Awards and BFC / GQ. Designer menswear fund.
Not only did Ahluwalia’s work receive the honor of August, but in collaboration with Gucci and GANNI she revolutionized her message and output. In the GucciFest project, she made a movie about the beauty of the black experience. At GANNI, she reworked the rest of the fabric from the previous season to create a collection. Most notably, in collaboration with Mulberry, the brand has changed its corporate policy on diversity and inclusion, ensuring that there is no discrimination against hair. Beyond fashion labels, brands like Ahluwalia are becoming more and more social projects.
A good example: The thrilling New York label Telfar, founded by Liberia-American designer Telfar Clemens in 2005, has been at the forefront of gender conventions in fashion even before it became a trend on fashion magazine pages. I did.
From designing the official uniforms of the Liberia team at the Olympics to winning the second CFDA / Vogue Fashion Awards of Accessories Designer of the Year, along with artistic director Baba Cladoboy, this pair means that the value of the community is paramount. Proved. The way you operate and stay loyal to yourself can not only build an avid follower base, but also accumulate $ 2 million in revenue.
Much of this success is due to the way brands have overthrown the elitist fashion framework. The Telfer shopping bag (named after Hermes Birkin, for its cult status), colloquially known as “Bushwick Birkin,” succeeded with an attitude of “not for you, but for everyone.” From Opla to Congresswoman Alexandria Ocasio Cortez, the bag has crossed high-end barriers to the unknowns of style influential Instagram. Unlike luxury clubs run by some brands, Telfar held multiple bag security programs and was able to comment on bags of the size and color that customers wanted. Take advantage of pre-orders to tackle the dire overproduction problem of fashion.
At A-COLD-WALL *, the same dedication to the community and the environment is deeply felt. A disciple of British designer Virgil Abloh and the interdisciplinary creative behind the brand, Samuel Ross doesn’t have to be introduced as one of the most proud players in the field of luxury streetwear.
Taking advantage of his upbringing in London’s working-class neighborhood, Ross’s architecturally sloping outerwear spans the history, modernity and futurism of its design. Ross’s garment, which reflects the relationship between class and race, employs the principle of armor between two layers of wear-resistant fabric and recycled fabric that reflects environmental friendliness.
In addition, Ross has launched an annual grant program that awards £ 10 to winners in various areas of the art as a whole, including fashion, sculpture and literature. ..
Stefano Martinetto, CEO of creative agency Tomorrow Ltd, said Ross “has built a great cultural and social dialogue with his community. The message is solid because it is genuine, reliable and true.” increase.
He went on to describe the success of brands such as A-COLD-WALL *, Telfar, and Ahluwalia with a social message to Gen Z consumers who are very careful about the 360-degree message of modern brands. Cultural creators, they choose to invest. Generation Z expects diverse and comprehensive marketing and will find cultural diversion and greenwashing from afar. “
Among all the designers mentioned, a common concern about the environment exists in parallel with loyalty to the undervalued community. At the 2021 Fashion Awards, the British Fashion Council spotlights Priya Ahluwalia, Teflar Clemens and Samuel Ross on 15 designers, brands, creatives and individuals who have driven the following positive changes within the industry: Celebrated as the leader of Change, a category devised for. Category: Environment, People, Creativity.
Ultimately by focusing on new business models, tailoring production processes to ethical consumption, encouraging authorized workforce, and emphasizing the role of the community from the supply chain to the manufacturing floor. Is an effort to output styles that position them as modern fashion designers. The true meaning of the word.