Good Good Culture Club Is Tropical Joy in SF

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The new bars and restaurants are from the same people behind the Rihoriho Yacht Club

GGCC rooftop. (Photo: Provided by Virginia Miller)

The rooftop vision of Hong Kong’s spots sparks, featuring graffiti art, vegetation, and night glow. It also reminds me of vibrant outdoor spaces, wall art in Tropic City, and Bangkok bars such as Lamb / Mezcal / Pisco Bar. But we are not in Asia. We are at the Good Good Culture Club (GGCC) in San Francisco. It opened on January 14, 2022. By beloved Rihoriho Yacht Club chef Ravi Kapur and partner Jeff Hanak. All these elements are on the roof and it feels like it’s moving the world away. As I write, on these refreshing and warm nights, Asia feels like an easy way to get around.

18th SThe tree space where Kapoor and the team’s dear Inga used to live. If the pandemic wasn’t hindered, I wish I had the opportunity to take off that modern Eastern European cuisine. Dear Inga, has softened the void I still feel deeply since Bar Tartine closed. I have never tasted the modern Hungarian and Japanese chef Nick Rose, created from his background. Hopefully others will consider this coveted void (and even better, Balla will be back at the new restaurant), but the Good Good Culture Club (GGCC) is already a hit and It’s clear what the space needed is. It’s packed every night, it’s really hard to get a reservation, and the sidewalks are crowded.

That’s certainly a downside, but after a few visits (I’ve tried everything except a good 2/3 of the menu and one of the cocktails), it feels like a sci-fi classic — and of the team. Infiltrate core values ​​(including fair wages, overall well-being, etc.) committed and happy teams. They seek to select spirits and wines from companies that offer comprehensive, fair wages and / or promote women with leadership. You can feel the vibrancy and intention of the colorful and sunny space.

Capule first said that GGCC is not “modern Asian cuisine”, as Rihoriho often says that it is not modern Hawaiian. Of course, for the average diner, a culinary-focused, rootless, vague explanation is literally hundreds of great restaurants in San Francisco alone, let alone when deciding where to dine in the Bay Area. It doesn’t help. To get started, you need some definition cores. After all, the bigger problem is not dubbing “modern Asia and Hawaii”, but that the average person doesn’t understand what those dishes and history start with.

GGCC beef carpaccio. (Photo: Provided by Virginia Miller)

The taste of the GGCC menu is clearly and primarily Asian, but the vastness of the incredibly diverse cuisine of the continent is already a very loose border.That part teeth Boundaryless is actually Kapoor’s unique style on the plate. Of the more than 12,000 restaurants I’ve been to around the world, there are hundreds of restaurants that I consider to be the finest. But there is a much shorter list of chefs I would say I can taste on the plate. These chefs were very peculiar and the way they all came together could only be expressed by them, unlike the musicians who were not imitators but the melange of many different sounds that influenced them.

Kapoor is one such chef. Unlike Stuart Brioza in State BirdProvisions / The Progress / The Anchovy Bar, or Dominique Crenn in Atelier Crenn, if you taste one of their plates as a local example, you’ll find it to be theirs. I have eaten many times since the opening of Rihoriho. In 2015, when he was an editor at Zagat, he considered Rihoriho to be one of the best new openings and celebrated how to take Hawaiian cuisine to the next level. As someone who has deeply loved, traveled and studied Hawaiian cuisine and history, it is unique from the mashups of many Asian countries with island roots and a touch of Portugal, as Cajun and Creole cuisine do. It’s a nice dish. Food clashes from countries around the world, bringing their own stunning and unrivaled cuisine.

This understanding of Hawaiian cuisine is already broad enough. At Rihoriho from Oahu (scheduled to reopen this spring), Kapoor has great food and ingredients such as homemade spam and his mother’s butter mochi recipe (a dessert that evolved from Japanese roots, but obviously a Hawaiian take). , I tried Asian roots). As a result, the possibilities of Hawaiian cuisine, a broader vision I’ve been waiting for in the Hawaiian Islands, have been spotlighted (although in a completely different style, chef Chris Kajoika has historically been Hawaiian Hawaii. Someone who saw him playing at the edge of the dish — he also has a deep connection to cooking at a science fiction restaurant).

GGCC hole petrale sole. (Photo: Provided by Virginia Miller)

Therefore, approaching the GGCC menu will certainly exceed expectations and widen the boundaries. But from the Philippines to Thailand, you will recognize the taste of Asia in a way you have never seen. This menu has been as dynamic as the Rihoriho menu over the years, and the GGCC space has risen to meet its vibrancy.

From neon sign queries (like my great Sicilian aunt), “Have you eaten?” To neon pink, turquoise, green hits, and local Karaniware murals, with a lively downstairs dining room. The bar is like a laid-back party. Heading to the outdoor rooftop on the second floor, the same color scheme and set of plants stare at the Maestrapeace mural of the mission’s iconic female building, reminiscent of somewhere between Mexico and Southeast Asia, throughout the block. Spared tables are great for groups and keep you festive, but less noisy than downstairs.

Working with co-chefs Kevin Keovanpheng and Brett Shaw, the menus on Instagram, Kapur and the team will be heavier with generously shared plates. The special Good Good Chicken Wing is juicy with a moderately crispy skin with adobo glazed and stuffed with garlic rice, while the poppy seed steam van stuffed with beef berries rubbed with smoked oyster sauce with curry aioli is me. Turns into those big “bites”. The tender beef skin is reminiscent of the perfect Texas brisket, and the bread around it is soft and airy.

The whole fried petrale sole salted with turmeric coconut milk, served with parapa herb salad, was irresistibly crispy but moist and flaky. A partner to be promoted.

GGCC Crying Tiger Shrimp. (Photo: Provided by Virginia Miller)

For me, all the dishes that best show the unique perspective of Kapoor (and the chef team) have a light and airy salad atmosphere in the first section of the menu, but with a thick and attractive contrast. I have. The crying Tiger Shrimp is cool and plump, benefiting from the contrast of red onions on a bed of cucumber, lightly fried butter beans, mint and coconut macult lime cream.

While shaving ubiquitous sprouts make an ideal salad, Monterey squid is one of the best in the world and fresh for Monterey’s lucky neighbors. Together, it’s one exciting salad dotted with fried pomelo and tripe in hot mustard dressing (if you’re afraid of tripe, what hit you when you hit that crispy goodness I don’t even know). Paper-thin beef carpaccio sits under a bed of red mustard leaves with frills, homemade maple chili sauce with cinco pear strips, and crispy pork ears. All three are vibrant and amazing, each of which is a taste explosion and vice versa. Fortunately they are light, but they are not lacking in punch. Signature Capule.

Bar director Janice Baron (who has been a bartender for years at Bourbon & Brunch and The Perennial) is playful and colorful. The tropical atmosphere infuse a drink like pink flamingo (including pomegranate, hibiscus, lychee, kinkan, lime) clarified with vodka-based coconut milk, although the drink is a bit subtle in some dishes, There is also a pink vacation away (Blanco Tequila, Rose) Vermouth, Guava, Lime, Foam) is balanced and just a little Guava, but it retains itself and cools many dishes. The Pool Boy is given a subdued turquoise shade from Blue Spirulina, a beautiful combination of Animas Mezcal base, the bitter and herbaceous whispers of Aves Lindow and Yellow Chartreuse, and tropical parks from differed passion fruit and lemon. increase.

The prominent presence of cocktails was surprisingly Home by the Sea. In essence, it’s a gin and tonic profile, but it’s more complex and buoyant, inspired by Baron’s era at Perennial, which focused on the sustainability of the drink’s environment. Japanese Roku Gin, Sidetrack Shiso liqueur and plum liquor have already made a base of herbs, soil and aromas with tonics. Ballon adds salted lemon from dried plums. This is a complete victory, salty, sour, vibrant in all the right ways.

Pool boy cocktail. (Photo: Provided by Virginia Miller)

Her savvy list of spirits is scored with a carefully selected selection from ethical producers, with a slight lean towards rum and agave. The most notable surprise is the brandy section (dear Inga remnants). I’ve found my long-standing love like Reisetbauer, an Austrian schnapps (dry and clear fruit brandy) distillery, with great carrots, ginger, cherries, pears, plum schnapps and more.

Rihoriho Wine Director / Dining Room Manager Amy Alsila (from California and others) offers a wise list of wines like the 2020 Kenen Sauvignon Blancskin Contact Wines. All wines are thankfully ordered by glass (you’ll need to ask them to add them to the tab), but they’re listed as 9 ounces. Carafe, 2 cups will be priced more reasonably. Expect balanced natural wines such as Durantel Spiny Bianco Frizzante Petnut and Chilled Red 2020 Tomen Post Frizzante, a blend of Carignan and Zinfandel.

The $ 60 per person Ohana menu is for groups of 8 to 16 people, but it’s an affordable way to try out cross sections. A 20% service charge is automatically added to each invoice to provide fair support to all staff. When each item is ready, request food and drinks via the Toast Tab on the phone (will come out in a timely manner). Will be added immediately. It’s easy to spend $ 200 for two with a few plates and drinks. However, this reflects the sharp inflation of commodities in the pandemic and the long-standing significant cost of capital in the industry without it.

The GGCC team was close, friendly and perfect in two weeks — and the same when I returned two weeks later. High energy from both the cafeteria and staff, with space transport as food and overall experience. It feels the same as when Rehoriho opened. There is no other place or menu like this in the whole country. The bad news is that this can be packed every night for a foreseeable future. The good news should mean that it will (hopefully) be around for a long time and become established as another “only in San Francisco” type of dining experience. The team united around the core values ​​we want to see more in the world.

// 3560 18th Street, https://goodgoodcultureclub.com

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